Today’s sophisticated computer controlled fuel injected engines squeeze a significant amount of horse power out of each combustion chamber.  In order to achieve their maximum output, they need precise input.  That precision involves 14.7 parts air for every 1 part fuel or 14.7:1. In order to know the correct amount of fuel to pump, the engine must know how much air is coming  in.  Air flow is not a constant. As the rig drives down the trail, through the hot and cold as well as humid or dry conditions air volumes change. Enter the Mass Air Flow (MAF ) sensor. The technical jargon behind the acronym MAF involves a constant voltage passed over two heated wires placed into the airflow.  As the air flows across the the wires, they cool down creating a positive temperature coefficient (PTC).  In other words by measuring the drop in temperature of the wires (or increase in current passing through them) the engine’s computer can calculate the airflow.  To ensure a correct reading the engine’s computer takes into account temperature and humidity as well.

Eventually, dirt and oily film can cook on the wire creating a thin insulating layer of muck.  Periodically, there’s a cleaning cycle where the wires are heated to a very high temperature to burn off deposits. If the deposits remain and engine’s computer sees an air mass value out of range, it sets an error code…  and the dash board lights up like a Christmas tree. Manufacturers of MAF sensors recommend replacing the sensor, after all they are in the business of selling them.  If you have a few garage tools and about twenty minutes you can clean the MAF sensor, which may solve the issue, if the wires are mucky between cleaning cycles. Removing the FJ Cruiser’s MAF sensor for a visual inspection and cleaning is a simple procedure.  The first step is to remove the plastic engine cover, by loosening the two nuts up front and lifting the cover off it’s hinge. Once cover is removed, the MAF is exposed in the front of the secondary air flow box.  Carefully, unhook the wire harness connecting the MAF to the engine’s computer. 

To remove the wire harness, depress the clip and give a snug pull on the sides of the connector.  Do not pull on the wires.  If the connector refuses to release its grip, try holding the clip down while sliding a screw driver between the connector and MAF, gently prying  the two apart, careful not to apply too much force (remember plastic exposed to heat, over time can become brittle). With the harness disconnected, remove the two screws holding the MAF in place and lift the sensor out of the the air flow box.  You can cover the opening with a shop towel to prevent any dirt, bugs or stray bird poop from falling in while you clean the sensor. With the MAF sensor removed inspect the hot wires for muck.  In order to clean the hot wires we picked up “contact cleaner” from Radio Shack and following the directions, really read the directions… sprayed the hot wires with cleaner. The contact cleaner we used drys in about 10 minutes and does not leave a film.  After the cleaner has done it’s job, slide the MAF back into place. 

You will hear a click as it seats past the O ring on the sensor’s collar.  Screw it into place, connect the wire harness and reattach the engine cover.  If you have an Intelligent Tester, you can ensure the mass air flow sensor is operating within spec following the Toyota mass air flow check service bulletin.  We simply made sure the dash board lights didn’t go into hyper-drive when we started the rig and let it warm up. Removes gum/resin, oil, greasy deposits and dirt, evaporates fully in seconds, leaving no residue, ...air purifier dispenser Triple X PLUS - Air Intake System Cleaner (TXP)ac with air purifier india Triple X plus - Specialized cleaner for petrol and diesel engines, which should be solely used with the Injection & Exhaust System Cleaning Device Clear Flow, art.-no.: 34011.can air purifier help with dust

Triple X - Air Intake Cleaner for pertrol engines PRO-TEC „Triple X“ is the latest development for air intake cleaning of petrol powered engines. Special high-duty cleaner for the quick and careful cleaning of sensitive parts of the airflow ... Triple X - Air Intake Cleaner for diesel engines PRO-TEC "Triple X" is an extremely powerful combination of active ingredients for cleaning of the ... Diesel Applicator Spray for cleaning of the air intake of diesel engines. Even highly adhesive and ... PRO-TEC Super Start Spray considerably improves the starting of petrol and diesel engines and ...Jump to Halfords Web site search Jump to main content Jump to main categories Wynns Fuel Injection & Carburettor Cleaner 500ml How can I get it? Wynns Fuel Injection & Carburettor Cleaner The Wynns Fuel Injection & Carburettor Cleaner is a cleaning product in an aerosol designed to eliminate dirt and deposits in the air intake manifold, the throttle valve and on the visible carburettor parts.

features & benefits of Wynns Fuel Injection & Carburettor Cleaner 500ml aerosol spray Strong solvent dissolves & removes dirt quickly Powerful jet spray to support cleaning action Cleans carburettor & intake system without disassembly Dissolves gum, lacquer & deposits Use in the air intake system of injection & carburettor petrol engines Suitable for visible carburettor parts Can also be used on throttle valves & choke View the Safety Data SheetIn checkout the products will be split into separate deliveries for each supplier. Other customers who bought this also viewed Failed Request Tracing Log DirectoryC:\inetpub\logs\FailedReqLogFilesIf you’ve had your PC for more than a few months, it’s probably lousy with dust, dirt, and worse. It’s time to do some spring cleaning on your PC—and I’m talking about the actual hardware here, not your operating system or data files. Plenty of physical hardware problems crop up on computers after extended use. Dust, dirt, hair, and other debris can build up on fans and heatsinks.

Components can come loose or become unseated. Thermal paste can break down and becomes ineffective. With a little cleaning and basic maintenance—and perhaps a bit of elbow grease—getting your PC back in top condition is easy. Just don’t be afraid to get your hands dirty. You may be surprised at the amount of gunk that accumulates in a PC whose hygiene has been neglected for a while. The first thing you need to do is assemble your gear. I like to keep canned air, a small (about 1-inch-wide) paintbrush, and a Dustbuster or similar small vacuum on hand. In addition, some paper towels and a bit of all-purpose spray cleaner (like Fantastik or Simple Green) are useful, as are a microfiber cloth, a tube of good thermal paste, and some isopropyl alcohol. The canned air and brush are useful for dislodging hair, dust and other debris from all of your PC’s surfaces—especially heatsinks and printed circuit boards (PCBs), which have a countless tiny nooks and crannies. 

The vacuum sucks up the various detritus. The paper towels, spray cleaner, and microfiber cloth are for wiping down hard, nonelectrical surfaces. An the thermal paste and isopropyl alcohol come into play if and when you need to reseat heatsinks. To practice what I preach in this article, I got my hands on a Core i5-based desktop PC that a smoker had been using (and not cleaning) for a couple of years in a house also occupied by a long-haired cat. Talk about a perfect storm! I’m including a few before and after photographs of the case, which had dust filters over all of its intake fans and a door on the front that hid the optical drive and front-mounted fans. As soon as I opened the door, I could see that the fan filters were completely clogged, and the vents on the rear of the system were covered with dust and cat hair. Even a small amount of detritus can choke off your PC’s air supply, resulting in higher temperatures that promote system instability and reduce the lifespan of your components.

Clogged intake fans can cause negative air pressure within a system, too, forcing the system’s exhaust fans to suck air into the case through any open crevice. Before opening the system, I recommend vacuuming the dust and debris from the fan filters and other vents.  Next, quickly wipe down the external surfaces with paper towels lightly dampened with spray cleaner. Don’t spray the cleaner directly onto any surface! The liquid could pool somewhere and cause a short. Now open your PC and inspect its guts. The dust filters on my dirt-encrusted case did a nice job of keeping large debris out, but plenty of dust had still slipped in and built up on the heatsinks and on all of the flat surfaces. To clean the inside of the system, I started by vacuuming up all of the loose debris and ridding the flat surfaces of as much dust as I could.  You can do the same, but be careful: When vacuuming inside a system, don’t use a big, high-powered vacuum and definitely don’t drag the hose or nozzle along the surface of any circuit boards. 

The last thing you want to do is knock off a surface-mounted capacitor or resistor and suck it up into the vacuum. Use the vacuum sparingly, and focus on gobbling up the largest bits of debris inside the case and on fans, heatsinks, and the like. Once you’ve vacuumed up most of the dust and dirt, remove the add-in cards from the system (on my test PC, only a sound card and a video card fell into this category), and reseat all of the power and data cables on the drives. Removing the cards makes them easier to clean. It also gives you a chance to counteract a phenomenon known as “chip walk” (or “chip creep”), which causes cards and connectors to come loose over time. As the components in a system heat up, they expand slightly. And when they cool down, they contract. Over many cycles of expansion and contraction, add-in cards and socket-mounted chips can creep out of their slots or sockets; reseating the cards and connectors ensures that they remain properly connected.

While the cards are out your PC, I recommend giving everything a solid blast of canned air. If you’re cleaning a particularly dirty system, you may want to do this part outside, because the dust will fly everywhere. Shoot the canned air at all surfaces and into all fans and heatsinks—in the direction opposite to the direction of the fan’s airflow, if possible. If, after vacuuming and using the canned air, you still see dust on a surface (this is common inside thin heatsinks), use the brush to clean out and dislodge the dust, and then fire away at the surface with the canned air again. The vacuuming, brushwork, and multiple shots of canned air should remove most of the dust and other debris in your PC. Use a microfiber cloth to wipe away any particularly stubborn dust. Never use paper towels to wipe anything down inside a system, because they tend to leave lots of small fibers and dust on textured surfaces. A microfiber cloth leaves nothing behind. One last tip: If your PC is more than six months old, it’s worth reapplying the thermal paste.

The thermal interface material (or TIM) used between CPUs and GPUs and their heatsinks breaks down over time and becomes less effective at conducting heat away from your PC’s components. To replace the TIM, carefully remove the heatsink and clean any old TIM from the heatsink’s base and from the surface of the chip it was mounted to using isopropyl alcohol (or any other alcohol-based cleaner that won’t leave any residue). Once the surfaces are clean, apply the new TIM and remount the heatsink. For detailed instructions on how to apply thermal interface material and how to install heastinks on both AMD and Intel processors, check out our guide to installing a CPU cooler. Cleaning all of the muck and dirt out of a system can be pretty gross, at least the first time around, but doing it regularly ensures optimal cooling performance and stability. There’s really no downside other than the time spent, which won’t be fun if you’ve neglected your rig for an extended period of time.