My dryer exhaust goes out of my laundry room, into my attic, and runs for about 15 feet before it gets outside. Over time the lent has built up quite a bit. What is the best way to clean this? The sections in the attic are connected via duct tape. If this isn't an easy task, what type of local places would do this service. Would heating and air conditioning places have this type of service? You can probably do it yourself cheaper than hiring it out. You could try something like this vent cleaning system. It seems to have fairly good reviews on Amazon, and for $25 it's worth a shot. It claims to have a 12' reach and the ability to navigate turns in the vent, so you may have to go at the last 3' from the other end. Note: You'll need a drill to attach it to. A shopvac would also be helpful, but if you don't have one, the kit includes an attachment to use with your dryer. You're supposed to clean your dryer duct once a year or so to prevent a fire hazard. The standard thing to clean a dryer duct is a brush with a long flexible handle.

They make ones specifically sized for dryer ducts. Here is a typical one: Disconnect your dryer and push the vent into the duct. Run it back and forth a few times. Keep a vacuum handy. You will make a mess. If your duct is vented somewhere on the ground level, you could easily sweep from both ends. Since it sounds like yours vents to the roof, you will probably want to sweep from the inside only. However, you should probably check out the outside vent to make sure it isn't plugged, and opens/shuts properly. If your duct has a lot of sharp bends or is very long (longer than the brush handle can reach), you will need to disconnect sections of the duct and clean them individually. Once you have swept the ducts, you may also want to think about how you can re-configure the duct to make things easier for next time. Your dryer duct may not be up to code either (many homes are not). I know you already have this problem and are asking about clearing it up. However, to prevent this from happening in the future, consider installing one of these lint traps near the exit of your dryer:

I have one and it seems to work very well. You'll need to pop open the top and clean out the lint every few weeks depending on how much drying you do. I have used the tool made for dryer vents, my vent goes under my house and across the width of this room. It does take a power drill, and you can buy an extra 12 feet to add to the 12 feet that comes with the kit I found this product in the dryer appliance sections. I has to repeat the process several times actually until it came out ckean The chimney service company I had install a liner in my chimney also did dryer vent cleaning. I believe some air duct cleaning companies also do dryer vent cleaning as well. If it doesn't bend, then you could use a chimney brush, which is essentially a long stick with a wire brush on the end. I know it's a funny answer but I have used a brick with holes in it and a rope tied to it to get the clog out a then used the brushes that was recommended. Only of course if it is a straight vent from attic.

If the duct is extremely clogged, you will need a professional. air duct how often to cleanThe tools for consumers do not have the strength to push through clogs. indoor plants air purifierIf the brush gets stuck which is very possible because of joints that are not flush or screws that are not permitted, you will need to hire someone to do an extra job.best air purifier bedroomBrowse other questions tagged vent dryer exhaust-vent or ask your own question.Keep your AC duct system clean for the highest efficiency. The air conditioning ducts in your HVAC system supply all of the rooms with cool forced air. When they need cleaning, the quality of the air will decrease and in many cases, the quantity of the air will decrease too. That will lead to an inefficient duct system that will tax both your blower motor and your pocketbook.

However, that isn't the only thing to look for when determining when your AC duct work needs to be cleaned. A clogged filter will blow dirty air through every duct and will make it look like the duct needs to be cleaned. Take the filter aspect out of the loop and replace it with a new one. Turn on the AC unit and watch a vent during the initial start-up when the motor turns on. If you notice a blast of dust from the vent when the motor kicks in, the duct needs to be cleaned. Listen to the airflow of the duct work. There should be no noise other than the blower motor. If there is a whistling noise or the airflow is just generally noisy, that may indicate a blockage somewhere in the duct work. A blockage can occur from a piece of insulation that gets sucked into the ducts, a broken-off piece of filter or a damper that is either partially closed or caked with dirt. In all instances, the problem must be found and the duct cleaned. Check the airflow of the ducts from room to room. Make sure the vents are opened fully when doing this.

If you notice that one of the ducts has less airflow than the others, the duct needs to be cleaned. Check the places where there are return air inlets. In many cases they are located on the floor and oftentimes things are dropped down the vents. This can starve the blower motor for air. If you notice any blockage inside of a return vent, it will need to be cleaned. //Getty Images Suggest a Correction 450 posts, read 3,375,320 times 4,516 posts, read 17,060,880 times 3,750 posts, read 15,267,568 times 228 posts, read 840,009 times 8,069 posts, read 9,161,701 times 29,988 posts, read 28,427,327 times Originally Posted by Bass101The job you will be able to accomplish with your shop vac will be little more than surface cleaning of vent areas. If you want the job done thoroghly you need to spring for a professional company with the correct equipment. They will actually drill through your ductwork to get complete access along the entire run of both your supply and return ducts.

You can use your shop vac to keep the area around where your filters insert into your furnace unit clean. Many people fail to do this and change out filters often enough. I'm hoping you were not actually running your HVAC system while dust debris was being created during your remodel project. Originally Posted by lifelongMOgal I had to b/c it was almost 100 degrees outside and I tried having it off and the workers were sweating and complaining. What else was I supposed to do? This was minor remodeling, anyway. Only one room had its drywall sanded and patched--in the basement. Other areas that were sanded and patched included one closet and an area of the basement stairs. There was only one minor cutting of drywall, where an area was removed on the staircase. I've had my HVAC all summer in triple digits but mine is a major remodel with much dust from plaster and sheetrock sanding. The investment of a new HVAC system and the high cost of that system were more important the contractors griping about the heat.

Mine didn't grip and they used fans. The inside of the house remained more cool than the triple digits outside as long as the windows remained closed. I had my ductwork cleaned prior to the messiest part of the remodel so the new HVAC system could be installed (major past mouse nests in ductwork). I am trying to decide if I will have it done again once the remodel is complete. Indoor air quality is something too few people consider as a worthwhile investment. 27,818 posts, read 27,120,608 times If you make sure all of your duct work is sealed tight, including the return, then using a media filter type system will remove the need to have your ducts cleaned. When choosing the filter you want to use the thicker the better and the larger the returns the better. You want to shoot, ideally, for 300 feet per minute for the return. This maximizes filter and evaporator coil performance. By the way those 1" pleated filters are horrible for airflow, performance and the life of your HVAC system unless your contractor specifically designed your return to handle the greater pressure drop across the filter.