Choose your product type Common number model plates Common model number plates View sample model numbers by selecting your product brand Model #GCV160-LAS3A HONDA Engine Choke to carburetor connection GCV160LAS3A Honda Engine Coil assemble for mower GCV160LAS3A, coil # 30500-ZL8-004 Thanks for the inquiry and for being a valued member.I am sorry to hear of the spark issue you're having with the mower. I know how frustrating that is.The coils can go out and lose the ability to produce spark. Before replacing it, I would verify the air gap between the coil, and check the magnets for any surface rust. The air gap should be .010" or about the thickness of an index card. If there is any surface rust on the magnets, lightly sand them with a very fine sandpaper. If that doesn't help, a replacement coil should solve the issue.We appreciate your business. coil assemble Model # GCV160LAS3A, coil # 30500-ZL8-014If that doesn't help, a replacement coil should solve the issue.

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Check the URL for typographical errors. Go to our home page and review the available options.First remove the following: Now remove the engine side cover (the side where the clutch gets mounted). Sometimes the cam and lifters will fall out when you take off the side cover. Do not worry, they go back in easily. Now look into the back, upper left of the engine and you will see a plastic gear. This is what you are going to remove. You will also see a metal arm with an elbow in it coming from the top of the engine. You will need to remove this too. Disconnect the linkage from the metal arm at the top of the engine. can try to slide the metal arm down and out of the engine, but chances are it will hit the crank. Pull the metal arm up from the top of the engine until it stops and cut it with a hacksaw, dremel cutting wheel or bolt cutters. remainder of the arm down and out of the engine. There is a washer on the arm. washer also gets removed.

With this garbage out of your engine, you can plug the hole on the top of your engine case where the metal arm was. A self-taping 1/4"-20 bolt works very well. If using a billet rod, you will also need to remove the low oil sensor. Remove the sensor and plug the hole with a 3/8" x 1 bolt and copper washer. If you are not using a billet rod, I recommend leaving the sensor in place, but disconnect it by cutting/unplugging the yellow wire on the outside of the motor. The sensor should be disconnected because when you drive around corners, the oil will flow to one side of the engine and the sensor will shut the engine Now it's time to start putting your engine back together. If your push rods fell out during the govenor removal process, slide them back into place. Make sure they contact the rocker arms correctly in the rocker arm dimple. Now slide the lifters into place.Just slide the lifters into their holes and they will contact the push rods.

Now you want to slide the cam into place. Make sure the lifters are now riding on top of the It's very important to have the cam and crank gears alignedYou will see a round, dimple punch mark on the cam gear and crank gear. need to match up when the two gears mesh together. Slide the rocker arms off of the valves and turn them to the side. do not need to remove the rocker arms. turn them to the side. Use a length of rope to stuff into the combustion chamber with as much rope as you can push in there. the valves from dropping into the chamber. Now you need to use a feeler gauge to set the valve lash. This is the distance between the rocker arm and the valve. sure your engine is still set at top dead center before setting the valve lash. valve lash at 0.002" intake and 0.003"Consider setting your lash at .004" for both valves. This will give you a little wiggle room and help avoid setting the last too tight which will break parts.