Always start with checking for strong spark, a bad condenser can put out strong spark when cold, but will quickly fade. Arcing across the points is a good indication of a bad condenser. Assuming that the ignition system is in tip-top shape, that sounds like a fuel related issue. I would start with checking fuel flow, as well as the fuel level in the tank. With a gravity feed fuel system, a clogged gascap vent, or misrouted/to long of a fuel line are common culprits, especially as the fuel level gets lower in the tank. If the tank is venting properly, and fuel flowing well to the carburetor, I'd clean the carb. Pay close attention to the small holes in the carburetor jets, just because you can see light through the hole does not mean it's not restricted by residue left from evaporating fuel causing a lean fuel mixture. Poking a small piece of soft copper wire through all the holes, followed by a good blast of air or carb cleaner works well. Do not use steel or anything to hard to clean out the jet, you may accidently enlarge the jet, changing the fuel mixture.

If the bike does not idle smoothly or takes a long time to settle back down to idle speed, and you've already cleaned the carburetor, you may have an airleak. Airleaks can be caused by a bad seal in the engine, or in the intake/carburetor joints. You can sometimes track down an airleak by spraying carburetor cleaner on a suspect sealing/joint area and listening closely to see if the engine RPM's change (sucking carb cleaner fumes into carburetor will also do this, so be careful when working near the carburetor). Hope those suggestions help! Drain the gas tank completely and wash it out with some fresh gas. Condensates from sitting for a long time may have clogged the hoses and filters plus you may have some water condensation in the lines now or particulate matter. Well I think you should spray started fluid then clean off spot plug and spray hoses and make Sure your hoses are tight My fa50 Suzuki 1985 had the same prob, i could rev it a lil but as soon as i revved it while on it, it would cut off.

My neighbor suggested that all older motorcycles have same issue. Simply get your hammer and tap away. I tapped the carborater and the thing next to the carborater pretty good and it started up and ran faster than b4! air rifle cleaning suppliesIt is suppose to loosen a needle that controls gas flow.what is the best ozone free air purifier I had the same issue with my SYM Euro Jet, I had cleaned the carb and exhaust. best lens cleaning liquidHowever still bogging out, I took it in to a shop for service, they said sell for parts. What I ended up doing was replace the seals on the Piston head and Exhaust myself and it has been running fine for another $8000ks :-) I have also fallen victim to cheap 2stroke Oil, which was found to cause buildup on the Spark Plug and in the Exhaust.

Yo yo i gots this 49cc ScooterX at top end the rear of the scoot starts feeling almost as if i have a flat tire_,but its fully/correctly inflated..id describe it as wishy washy almost like the tire is spinning at an angle or something.. Can anyone help me fix this issue .. I have the same issue. Before I had an air leak and it had a rough idle and it took a bit to settle down to a smooth idle. My leak was the carb drain hose on the bottom of the carb. With that fixed, I bog after on acceleration when warmed up. I'm sure it is a carb issue. I will try the air fuel mix screw and if that does not work, I will clean the carb. My feeling that both low and high (WOT) are fine but it is the middle that causes the box after a long WOT run, like at stop light / signs. Really cheap 2 stroke will cause my bike to flat on its face??? My problem is tht i'll ride at 42mph pretty good but after a bit it falls on its face then i'll kick start it and i'll ride for a bit further then it shuts off again and won't kick on again sometimes for hours

Log in or create an account Action City RockersBlk BlkBourbon BanditsThe BuzzardsThe CasserollersCreatures of the LoinCream City CranksDecepticonsGhost RidersHell's SatansHot 'N' ReadyzLandsquidsMotor City RiotThe Metal PoniesMonoMosquito FleetPuddle CuttersSmog SquadSwoopsThe Bombardment Society (emeritus)The Guns (emeritus)Mission 23 (emeritus)Peddy Cash (emeritus)The Tom Cruisers (emeritus) Jump to: navigation, search Vacuum leaks, or air leaks occur when two adjoining parts either are not tightened together correctly or when a gasket between two parts is no longer sealing the parts properly. The piston creates a vacuum in the cylinder above it, and this suction sucks the air in through the carburetor. If you have an air leak, the suction sucks air in through the gap between improperly joined parts instead of through the carb, which makes your fuel/air mixture more lean. Air leaks can make your moped run poorly, or can cause the engine to idle faster than normal -- usually regardless of how much you adjust the idle screw.

You want to fix any air leaks because having too lean of a mixture can cause your engine to overheat, resulting in seizure. Air leaks also make it hard to a good plug chop and tune your moped correctly because the extra air adds an unpredictable and unwanted variable to the tuning equation. Common places to find air leaks are: carburetor body to carburetor top carburetor body to intake manifold intake manifold to cylinder cylinder to cylinder head (see also: Fred's Guide) cylinder to bottom end/engine cases cylinder to exhaust pipe Other possible sources of air leaks are: engine seals (see Puch E50 Bearing and Seal Replacement) between the two crankcase halves. The crankcase halves should be smooth where they are fitted together, with liquid gasket (e.g. Yamabond) applied to seal the two halves together. There are a few ways to diagnose an air leak. Start the moped and let it idle on the stand. Spray carb cleaner (Flammable spray of some kind works best, not WD40) anywhere two metal surfaces join -- the places listed above are good places to start.

Make sure you spray only one area at a time; don't just bathe the whole engine area in carb cleaner all at once. If you hear the idle change or the engine dies, there is an air leak at the place you just sprayed. Another good way to check for exhaust leaks (leaks between the cylinder and exhaust pipe) is to clean the area well. Then go for a ride. When you come back from the ride, check the underside of the cylinder. If there is black oily seepage or leakage on the bottom of the cylinder, where the exhaust pipe attaches to the cylinder, or dripping down the exhaust pipe, you most likely have an exhaust leak. Make a block off plate / gasket for the exhaust. i've used thin plastic or innertube successfully. use a rubber hose adapter from a bike pump to the intake. do not clamp . only rest your hand on the pump handle to push air, as you don't want too much pressure. not clamping the adapter allows it to blow off if you put too much pressure on. I cannot emphasize how little pressure you want to put on the case.

besides damaging seals, you can force air past them, making a false leak. use soapy solution to look for bubbles. Video of the process [1] Rebel Moby's mabecanemobylette page on leak testing [2] Here are some possible ways to fix an air leak: Make sure the parts are tightened together well. Don't go nuts tightening things, though, because stripping a hole, stud, or fastener will ensure that you never get the parts to join tightly again until you fix/replace whatever you stripped. Check your existing gaskets. You might need to buy new ones or get a roll of gasket paper and cut some new ones yourself. Note: Gaskets in areas of high temperature or pressure, such as the head gasket or exhaust gasket, may require higher-quality gasket material than the average stuff you usually find in stores. (Usually this is a thin piece of copper or aluminum see Head gasket) Some places won't have gaskets (for example, the carb/intake joint on Bing carburetors often lacks a gasket.)

If you have a Bing with this issue, you can try using an O-ring that fits inside the carb [size 20mm], shimming it, or aluminum furnace tape. If you use the O-ring, make sure to squish the carb and intake together tightly before you tighten the carb back down, or else you won't get as good of a seal. A variation on the O-ring is to find a flat rubber washer that has the same outer diameter (OD) as the carb's intake manifold hole, and then cut the inside diameter (ID) of the washer so that it doesn't block the path of fuel and air flow through the carb. Gasket sealer (liquid gasket) can also work if applied in the correct manner. If there is an air leak at the engine seals, you can replace the engine seals (photos of refitting engine seals for an E50 can be seen here). Follow the steps in the service manual for how to replace your engine seals. The new seals should cost about $10. While you are replacing the seals, you may want to replace the bearings, but this is an optional step, and not needed to address air leaks.