Request a FREE phone quote • 608-204-3828 Any cleaning method may be used which will render the Coil Visibly Clean and capable of passing Coil Cleaning Verification. The following is a typical coil cleaning procedure: Turn off and lock out the main power switch to the unit and open all access panels. Record any pre-existing damage. We are not responsible for problems resulting from prior careless/inappropriate cleaning techniques of others. Remove Surface Loaded Fibers. If applicable, use a HEPA vacuum with a soft brush. A soft non-metallic bristle brush may also be used. The tools are to be applied in the direction of the fins. Wet finned surfaces with clean water and a low velocity garden hose. Mix coil cleaner as required with 100-degree water. Thoroughly apply to all coil surfaces including finned area, tube sheets and coil headers. Spray in a vertical, up-and-down motion ensuring the coil cleaner thoroughly penetrates into the fins. Cleaning solution should remain ‘wet’ on fins for 5-10 minutes (reapply as necessary).

Thoroughly rinse surfaces with low velocity clean water in a vertical, up-and-down motion. Back flush towards the entering airside of the coil. At the conclusion of the project, the Contractor shall provide a report to the owner indicating the following: Success of the cleaning project. This is verified through visual inspection and/or gravimetric analysis. Any known areas of the system found to be damaged and/or in need of repair.air duct cleaning tools Call today for a FREE estimate – (608) 204-382air purifier against allergies From: ghg@noose.ecn.purdue.edu (George Goble)best air purifier for cooking smells Subject: Re: Air Conditioner Midew Spray Date: Mon, 11 Jul 1994 09:33:44 GMT

> (John Kalucki) writes: > > My '91 Accord had a very foul mildew'ish odor after the car had been > > sitting for a while when the air conditioner had been previouslyThe smell went away pretty quickly after I started driving or > > turned on the air conditioner. >Why, after 30+ years of automotive AC, hasn't this problem been solvedBuilding HVAC doesn't have this problem... Building HVAC does have this problem sometimes.. Problem is fungus growing in moist areas. If the ducts and evaporator are wet for 3weeks/month.. just like in showers, etc. One has to either dry it out now and then (run on Vent only with compressor off), or try to fight it with spraying Lysol in the intake (use normal setting instead of max as this sucks in air from the outside).. spraying, immed shut it off so Lysol stays in ducts overnight. From: John De Armond Subject: Re: Mold in the A/C. Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 03:01:48 -0400 >We've had a tremendously high mold count since the floods in eastern Kansas.

>We now have a nice blast of mold smell each time the a/c unit comes on inWhat is an effective way to rid the system of this? >highly sensitive to mold and we spend a lot of time in this unit. Take the AC unit apart enough to get to the evaporator. evaporator, the water tray and anywhere else mold might grow with a bleach solution. About 1 part bleach to 3 or 4 parts water, not critical. Put it in a spray bottle and add just a speck of bleach-compatible laundry detergent as a wetting agent to help it penetrate the mold. Wet everything down well, let it soak, repeat, thenFollow that by cleaning away the little dead mold bodies and dirt with airI think I saw coil cleaner at Lowe's awhile back. any HVAC or appliance parts supply house will have the stuff. If coil cleaner is hard to come by, use any of the many varieties of alkaline purpleCastrol's Purple Power* is one commonly found at Wallyworld and*not sure whether it's Castrol's brand but am sure about the Purple

One of the best formulations (and the cheapest) is called Purple Stuff made by the Luther Chemical Company. Purple stuff requires a lot more water to rinse away than coil cleaner so I'd consider it a second choice. It must be completely removed or the caustic soda in the formula may corrode the aluminum parts. If you want to do THE BEST job of cleaning the coils, follow the coil cleaner with a blast from a pressure washer. Blast AGAINST the air flow. This requires that you mask over the openings to the RV to prevent water ingress. The pressure washer does such a good job that it is the usual method I use. Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 14:57:10 -0400 On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 07:51:21 -0400, Lee wrote: >>Follow that by cleaning away the little dead mold bodies and dirt with air >> conditioner coil cleaner. >> any HVAC or appliance parts supply house will have the stuff. >I will assume then that the coil cleaner and the other products you

>mentioned would have no effect on a rubber roof or must you have water >running while using these products? Stuck that post in my Hold file! There are no petroleum distillates in the cleaners so I'd not expect any effects onI'd still have water running over my roof if it were either rubber or aluminum just as a general precaution. Coil cleaner is simply strong detergent and either an acid or alkaline base. Generally an acid base is preferred for coils unless they are clogged with grease, say, from a condensing unit sitting near a restaurant greaseThen the alkaline cleaner works better because it saponifies theThe acid base dissolves lime and other mineral buildup that results from condensate being evaporated on the condenser. Purple stuff is strongly alkaline and is the most amazing grease cutter I've everSpray it on that greasy black crud that collects on charcoal grills and the stuff just runs off. It's better than Gunk for degreasing engines.